qipao

The qipao, also known as the cheongsam, is a women's dress distinguished by a high mandarin collar, a diagonal or straight front opening fastened with decorative knots or frogs, and a closely fitted silhouette often cut with side slits. The term qipao (旗袍) originally referred to a Qing dynasty Manchu garment, but the modern, form-fitting version developed in Shanghai in the 1920s as a synthesis of Chinese tailoring and Western dress.

In the 1920s and 1930s urban Chinese women adopted a shorter, more body-skimming silhouette that reached the knee or below and featured longer side slits for ease of movement. Fabrics were predominantly silk or satin, frequently enhanced with embroidery, brocade, and vivid patterns such as flowers, dragons, or phoenixes. Variations include long-sleeved versions for formal occasions and sleeveless or short-sleeved versions for warmer climates; the length ranges from knee to ankle.

The qipao became a symbol of modern femininity and urban fashion in China, though its display and form evolved under political and social changes. In mainland China, its prominence declined after the mid-20th century but continued in formal events and state performances; in Hong Kong and Taiwan it remained a popular staple through the mid-to-late 20th century and persists as a cultural icon. In English-speaking contexts, the term cheongsam is commonly used, especially for older generations or in Hong Kong and diaspora communities.

Today, designers produce a range of qipao styles, from traditional ankle-length versions to contemporary, body-skimming miniatures, preserving the signature mandarin collar and side slits while adapting to modern fashion.