tanjak

Tanjak, also known as tengkolok, is a traditional Malay male headdress used in the Malay world, especially in Malaysia, Brunei, Singapore, and parts of Sumatra. It is formed from a long piece of fabric—often silk or cotton—that is carefully folded and arranged to create a stiff, layered crest that rises above the head. The folds and the length of the fabric vary by region and by occasion, producing different shapes and degrees of ornamentation. The headpiece is typically worn with traditional attire such as baju melayu, often accompanied by a sampin.

Cultural significance: Tanjak has long been associated with Malay nobility and royal court life. In many states the most ceremonial version is the tengkolok diraja or tanjak diraja, worn by sultans and princes during state functions. Beyond royalty, tanjak is also part of formal traditional dress for weddings, official ceremonies, and cultural performances, serving as a symbol of Malay identity and social status.

Regional variations: Differences in style appear across Malaysia and neighboring regions. Terengganu, Kelantan, Kedah, Johor, and Pahang each have distinctive tanjak patterns and folding techniques. Some tanjak are crafted from woven songket fabrics; others use plain or striped silk. The choice of material and the complexity of the folds reflect regional heritage, occasion, and, in some contexts, rank.

Contemporary use: Today, tanjak remains a living tradition. It is worn in weddings, cultural displays, and national events, and is also collected by museums and cultural organizations. While modern fashion sometimes presents updated interpretations, the tanjak continues to symbolize Malay heritage and ceremonial dignity.