tengkolok

Tengkolok, also known as tanjak or destar in some regions, is a traditional Malay headgear worn by men during formal and ceremonial occasions. It forms part of royal and noble attire in Malaysia, Brunei, and parts of Indonesia, and remains a symbol of Malay identity and heritage. The term tengkolok is most commonly used in Malaysia, while tanjak or destar is more common in Indonesia and Brunei.

Construction and appearance vary by region, but the basic form is a long strip of fabric—often silk, satin, or songket—that is folded and tucked into multiple layers to create a tall, crowned silhouette. The fabric is worn over an inner cap and secured with pins or ties. Styles range from simple to highly elaborate, with variations in the number of folds, decoration, and stitching. The overall look emphasizes a sharp, elegant profile and is designed to be worn with traditional attire such as baju melayu and sampin.

Symbolism and use are central to its significance. Tengkolok signals rank and ceremonial status and is traditionally worn at weddings, coronations, state functions, and other formal events. In modern contexts, it continues to be used by royalty and ceremonial entourages and is reproduced for cultural performances and exhibitions to preserve the heritage and craftsmanship behind the form.

History and related forms: The practice traces to historic Malay sultanates and has persisted through the Malacca Sultanate era into contemporary ceremonial life. Related headgear include the tanjak and destar, with the term tengkolok used predominantly in Malaysia and tanjak/destar more broadly in neighbouring regions.