quillwork

Quillwork is a decorative art in which porcupine quills are applied to textiles, leather, and other surfaces to create intricate patterns and images. It developed among Indigenous peoples of North America before and during early contact with Europeans and remained an important craft through the 18th and 19th centuries. Quills—shed by porcupines—were cleaned, sometimes dyed with natural pigments, and split lengthwise into flat strips. These strips could be sewn onto hides or fabrics (quill embroidery) or wrapped around cords or threads to form raised textures (quill-wrapping).

Techniques and materials commonly used in quillwork include quill embroidery on hide or cloth, quill-wrapping around cords, and the use of sinew or thread with bone or metal needles. Quills were dyed in colors such as red, black, yellow, and white, with patterns ranging from geometric motifs like chevrons and diamonds to stylized plant or animal forms. The designs often carried cultural, familial, or tribal significance and served as indicators of identity and status.

Geographically, quillwork was prominent among Plains, Great Lakes, Plateau, and other Indigenous communities. Objects decorated with quillwork included moccasins, belts, bags (parfleches), shirts, pipes, ceremonial regalia, and other personal or communal items. With the arrival of European glass beads, beadwork gradually became more prevalent in many areas, but quillwork persisted in various regions and continued to be valued as a foundational Indigenous craft. In the 20th century, renewed interest and revivals helped preserve and reinterpret quillwork as part of Indigenous cultural heritage.