Patternmaking

Patternmaking is the technical process of producing a pattern, a template from which fabric pieces are traced and cut to construct garments. It translates a design into a system of two-dimensional pattern pieces with exact dimensions, seam allowances, grainlines, notches, and other construction marks.

A basic pattern block, or sloper, represents a fit that can be graded into multiple sizes. Patternmakers modify blocks or draft from measurements to realize style features such as darts, necklines, collars, sleeves, and waist shaping. After development, pattern pieces are tested on a muslin toile or virtual simulation; adjustments are made before final patterns are graded to size ranges for production.

Process involves taking body measurements, choosing a size, selecting or developing a pattern block, and drafting or altering pieces (bodice, skirt, sleeve, etc.). Pieces are then traced or cut, seam allowances and notches are added, grainlines and markers are indicated, and a cohesive construction plan is created. The patterns are laid out on fabric to maximize efficiency, and a test garment is produced to verify fit and design.

Tools commonly used include pattern paper, rulers (straight and curved), French curve and hip curve, pencils, scissors, tracing wheels, erasable marking tools, notches, and grading rules. Digital patternmaking uses computer-aided design (CAD) software to draft, simulate fit, grade, and generate marker layouts, offering rapid iteration and archival pattern libraries.

Applications extend across ready-to-wear, couture, costume design, and industrial sewing. Patternmaking underpins fit, production efficiency, and size standardization, and it serves as a bridge between design concepts and manufacturable garments.