grainlines

Grainlines are directional indicators used in sewing that show how a fabric’s grain runs relative to a pattern piece. In woven fabrics, the grainline on a pattern generally marks the lengthwise grain, which runs parallel to the fabric’s selvage and is the most stable direction. The crosswise grain runs perpendicular to the lengthwise grain, and the bias is a 45-degree angle to both, offering the most stretch and drape.

On pattern pieces, a grainline is usually shown as an arrow. When laying out fabric, align each piece’s grainline with the fabric’s lengthwise grain, i.e., parallel to the selvage. This alignment helps ensure stable hangs, accurate fit, and minimal distortion. Keep the pieces square to the selvage and avoid twisting the grain. The crosswise grain is more prone to distortion and typically should align with the fabric’s crosswise edge as indicated by the layout plan.

Grainlines influence drape and fit. The lengthwise grain is the straightest, giving structure; the crosswise grain offers some give; the bias is the most stretchable and drapable. Cutting along the bias is sometimes used for decorative effects or draped silhouettes, but it changes fit and requires careful handling.

Knits behave differently from wovens. Knits have a distinct machine direction and a crosswise direction with different stretch characteristics. Pattern instructions usually specify aligning the grainline with the fabric’s machine direction to minimize distortion, though some designs may call for a different orientation to achieve the desired drape. In all cases, following the grainline directions helps maintain garment shape and performance.