Oljegarvning

Oljegarvning, or oil tanning, is a method used in leather production in which oils or fats are introduced into hides during the tanning process to produce soft, pliable leather with enhanced resistance to water and oils. The technique has historical roots in saddle, harness, and footwear leathers and is still employed for certain specialty leathers today. Oljegarvning is often used in combination with other tanning systems, such as mineral tanning with chromium salts or aldehyde tanning, with the oil applied to penetrate and lubricate the collagen fibers.

Process and methods include pretreatment of hides (soaking, liming, fleshing) followed by partial tanning and the controlled introduction of oils. Oils—ranging from animal-based fats like neatsfoot and lanolin to vegetable oils or synthetic lubricants—are applied via baths, padding, or drum-tumbling to achieve the desired oil content. The oil penetrates the matrix, reducing stiffness, increasing flexibility, and forming a protective layer. The leather is then dried and finished, and the final oil level influences softness, aging, and moisture behavior.

Properties and applications include a soft hand, good drape, and resistance to moisture and staining, making oiled leather suitable for shoes, boots, belts, saddlery, upholstery, and some fashion goods. Care and conditioning are often recommended to maintain suppleness over time.

Environmental and technical considerations involve the management of oil use and effluents, as well as the choice of oils, which can affect color, odor, aging, and performance. Some modern formulations seek greener or more sustainable oil sources to reduce environmental impact, while preserving the characteristic softness of oil-tanned leather.