tukikangas

Tukikangas, in Finnish sewing terminology, is a fabric layer added to another fabric to give structure, stability, and reinforcement. It is commonly referred to in English as interfacing or interlining. Tukikangas is used between the main fabric and its facing or lining to support areas such as collars, cuffs, lapels, waistbands, and facings, helping them hold their shape during wear and care.

It can be fusible, with an adhesive coating on one side that is bonded to the fabric with heat and pressure, or sew-in (non-fusible), which is stitched to the fabric with a separate seam. Interfacings may be woven, nonwoven, or knitted; woven interfacings tend to be drapier and more stable for tailored pieces, while nonwoven or fusible types offer quick, durable support.

Materials vary from cotton and polyester blends to more synthetic or acrylic options. Weights range from light for blouses and delicate fabrics to heavy for suit linings or outerwear. Tukikangas is chosen based on how much support is needed and how much drape should remain; it is common in collar stays, cuffs, plackets, facings, hems, and garment linings to prevent stretching.

Care considerations depend on the type: fusible interfacings may be affected by washing and ironing; sew-in types are generally more durable with repeated laundering but require additional sewing. When selecting tukikangas, makers test on fabric scraps and consider the garment’s weight, finish, and end-use.

Cross-reference: interfacing, interlining, fusible interlining, sew-in interlining.