tkebeli

Tkebeli is a traditional textile weaving technique and the fabrics it produces, practiced by communities in mountainous regions. It is notable for bold geometric motifs and a tactile ribbing that results from an alternating warp–weft structure. The exact origins of tkebeli are uncertain, but scholars generally place its emergence in premodern village workshops where weaving was a central household craft.

The term tkebeli comes from the local language, with linguists suggesting a root meaning to weave or to pattern, and a suffix that marks a craft or instrument. The craft is typically passed down through generations, with pattern books and sample textiles used as teaching aids.

In practice, tkebeli involves setting up a loom with a stable warp. Yarns are typically spun from local sheep or goat fleece and dyed with natural plant-based colorants. Pattern is determined by the arrangement of colored weft threads, producing motifs such as chevrons, diamonds, and stepped meanders. Repeated repeats create bands that can span large widths, and some examples include supplementary weft techniques to add additional texture.

Materials and tools are often modest, but the work can be highly specialized. Dyers prepare color recipes, while weavers maintain strict counting and threading practices to preserve symmetry across the fabric. Weaving sessions may be organized around communal events, with fabric produced for clothing, ceremonial textiles, or trade.

Today, tkebeli faces pressures from modernization but has seen renewed interest from craftspeople and museums. Workshops and cooperatives document patterns and teach younger artisans, helping to preserve both the technique and its regional variations.