popeline

Popeline, or poplin in English, is a lightweight to midweight woven fabric characterized by a smooth face and a fine rib. Traditionally woven in a plain weave with warp-dominated yarns, the warp threads are finer than the weft, producing subtle lengthwise ribs that are visible on the fabric surface. The term popeline is of European origin and has been used since the early modern period; it is now applied to a range of fabrics made from silk, wool, cotton, or blends.

Construction and characteristics: The defining feature is a warp-faced plain weave, where finer warp yarns create the rib effect. This gives popeline a crisp hand and a smooth, opaque surface, even in lightweight versions. Finishes such as mercerization or calendaring can increase sheen and enhance a crisp drape. Modern cotton poplin is especially common for shirts and summer garments, but silk, wool, and synthetic variants are produced for different feel and price points.

Uses and care: Popeline is widely used for shirts, blouses, dresses, and linings. Cotton poplin is usually machine washable, while silk or wool versions may require gentler care or dry cleaning depending on the blend and finish. Care instructions vary with fiber content and finishing, but many popelines tolerate regular laundering when properly treated.