aari

Aari is a traditional form of embroidery practiced in the Indian subcontinent, notably in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. It is named after the hooked needle used in the technique and is often referred to as aari work. The embroidery is characterized by long, continuous chain stitches created by drawing thread through fabric from the back to the front with a curved hook, producing a delicate, raised surface.

The process uses a frame or hoop to keep the fabric taut, with a working thread chosen for color and sheen. The hooked needle is used to pull thread from the back, forming loops that become chain-like stitches on the front. Patterns can be dense and intricate, with motifs such as flowers, leaves, or geometric shapes. Aari work is commonly embellished with beads, sequins, or other decorative elements to enhance texture and impact.

Common applications include wedding and formal wear, such as sarees, lehengas, and dupattas, as well as ensembles like salwar suits and kaftans. The technique is well suited to net, georgette, chiffon, and other lightweight fabrics, where the raised stitches are visible against a finer background. Regional variations exist, with different communities developing distinctive motifs and combining aari stitches with other forms of embroidery.

Cultural and economic aspects of aari embroidery reflect its role in traditional textile crafts. It is typically performed by skilled artisans, often working in family workshops, and remains an important source of income in many communities. The craft faces modern pressures from mass-produced machine embroidery but continues to be valued for its hand-made quality and the detailed, textured effects it produces. Efforts to preserve and promote training help sustain the technique for future generations.