Merkattu

Merkattu is a traditional handwoven textile technique and the fabrics produced by it, practiced in the highland and riverine regions of a historical cultural area. The term is used to refer both to the weaving method and to the pattern-rich textiles that result from it. The practice is distinguished by its use of a loom to create layered motifs, where a primary warp structure is complemented by a secondary weft to form intricate designs.

Etymology and origins are tied to the region’s language, with merk- meaning thread and attu referring to pattern or weave. Earliest records date from medieval manuscripts and local chronicles, and merkattu became associated with ceremonial dress, banners, and dowry textiles as regional communities expanded trade networks. The craft experienced a notable revival in modern times as part of cultural heritage programs and artisan cooperatives.

Technique and materials involve careful loom work and controlled use of color. Weaving often employs natural dyes derived from plants and minerals, producing a palette of deep blues, earthy browns, and subtle reds. Patterns range from geometric grids to stylized flora and river motifs, frequently carrying symbolic meanings related to lineage, status, or communal identity. Typical merkattu textiles are finished with hand-pressed edges and, in some cases, decorative embroidery.

Cultural significance centers on transmission of skill across generations, with apprenticeship and family lineage playing key roles. In contemporary contexts, merkattu is maintained by dedicated artisans and studied by researchers as an example of traditional textile practice. Modern iterations appear in galleries, museums, and limited designer collections, preserving both technique and its cultural memory.