wefting

Wefting is the process of weaving in which the weft (also called the woof) is the horizontal thread interlaced with the warp, the lengthwise threads, to produce fabric. The term derives from Old English weft and is contrasted with warp, the longitudinal system that provides structure.

On a loom, warp threads are held taut while the weft is carried across the loom and interlaced by passing over and under the warp threads. After each pass, the weft is pressed tight to create a compact fabric, and the edges are finished as selvages to prevent unraveling. The basic interlacing forms the foundation of many fabrics, with variations achieved through different weave structures and threading patterns.

Common weave structures include plain weave (a simple over-under pattern), twill (diagonal lines produced by offsetting pattern rows), and satin (long floats that create a smooth surface). Weft insertion methods range from traditional hand-held shuttles to modern technologies such as rapier, air-jet, and water-jet looms, which allow faster production and complex patterns.

Materials used as weft vary widely. Natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, and linen are frequently employed, as are synthetics like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, often in blends to combine performance and appearance. The choice of weft influences fabric hand, drape, strength, and finish. In some fabrics, the weft is designed to be more visually prominent (weft-faced weaving), while in others the warp dominates.

Wefting is central to most woven textiles, including clothing, upholstery, carpeting, and industrial fabrics. Historically and in contemporary practice, it remains a core technique, supplemented by innovations in loom technology and patterning methods.