twill

Twill is a textile weave characterized by diagonal lines, or wales, formed when the weft yarns pass over one or more warp yarns in a repeating progression. The most common twill patterns are 2/1 and 3/1, where the weft traverses two or three warp threads before going under one, creating a distinct diagonal on the fabric surface.

The diagonal, or wale, may appear on the fabric surface as a subtle slope or a pronounced ridge, depending on the weave. If the warp dominates on the face, it is called warp-faced twill; if the weft dominates, it is weft-faced. Broken twill patterns, such as herringbone, are achieved by alternating the direction of the diagonal to form zigzag motifs.

Common twill fabrics include denim, chinos, gabardine, serge, and tweed. Denim, with a colored warp and a lighter weft, shows a characteristic diagonal on the surface. Gabardine and serge are smooth, durable twills used for suits and uniforms; tweed is a coarser, often mixed-ply twill.

Properties and uses: Twill fabrics tend to be durable and abrasion resistant with good drape and wrinkle characteristics. They can hide stains better than plain weaves and are widely used in clothing—jeans, workwear, jackets, and trousers—as well as upholstery and industrial goods.

Production and variations: Twill is produced on standard looms through a staggered weft progression. The direction of the diagonal can be adjusted to create right-handed or left-handed twill. Variants such as herringbone or hounds-tooth result from alternating the weave progression to produce decorative patterns.