denim

Denim is a sturdy cotton twill fabric characterized by a diagonal rib. Traditionally the warp yarns are indigo-dyed while the weft yarns are left natural or white, yielding the classic blue shade that fades with wear.

Origin and name: Denim's history is the subject of competing theories. It is commonly linked to serge de Nîmes from Nîmes, France, and to the Italian port city of Genoa (where the term jean or jean fabric is associated with Genoa). The fabric was widely used for workwear in the 19th-century United States.

Davis/Levi: In 1873, Levi Strauss and tailor Jacob Davis patented riveted work pants made from denim, establishing jeans as durable everyday wear.

Manufacture and properties: Cotton fibers are spun into yarns, warp yarns are dyed with indigo, and the fabric is woven in a twill to create the characteristic diagonal pattern. Denim can be produced as raw or dry denim (unwashed), sanforized pre-shrunk, or washed and distressed. Selvedge denim is woven on narrower, traditional looms and finished with a clean edge; contemporary denims may include stretch fibers such as elastane.

Uses and care: The fabric remains most associated with jeans but is also used for jackets, skirts, bags, and workwear. Denim fades and creases with wear, creating a patina. Care practices vary, but washing in cold water and air drying can slow color loss; raw denim often requires initial washing after extended wear.