surfers

Surfers are people who ride ocean waves on boards. Most surfers ride while standing, using a stance on a surfboard; some use different boards or positions, such as foam boards for beginners or bodyboarders who ride lying down on a short board. Surfers assess the ocean to select suitable waves, considering swell direction, wind, and tides. The typical sequence involves paddling to gain speed, performing a pop-up to stand, and riding the face of the wave toward the shore.

Surfing has ancient roots in Polynesian cultures and is widely regarded as having been practiced in Hawaii for centuries. In the early 20th century, Duke Kahanamoku popularized modern surfing internationally, and the sport spread to the United States, Australia, and other coastal regions. Since then it has evolved into a global pastime and competitive sport, with professional circuits and a large recreational community.

Equipment includes surfboards of various shapes: longboards (stability and glide), shortboards (maneuverability), and foam boards for beginners. Other gear includes a leg leash, wax for grip, and a wetsuit in cold water. Board design and fins influence speed and handling, and some waves require larger boards or tow-in setups for big-wave riding. Techniques cover paddling, takeoff, stance, turning, and carving, with surfers choosing waves and lines that suit their level and style.

Surfer culture emphasizes etiquette and safety, such as giving priority to the person already riding a wave, not dropping in on others, and respecting beach and reef environments. Major competitions are organized by bodies such as the World Surf League, and notable surfers have helped shape the sport’s history. Surfing also intersects with environmental concerns, tourism, and coastal communities.