surfing

Surfing is a water sport in which a rider stands or lies on a board and rides on the crest or face of a breaking ocean wave. The sport emphasizes balance, timing, and control to ride the moving energy toward shore. Surfers use a board to catch waves by paddling, then pop up to a standing position to maneuver along the wave.

Origins trace to ancient Polynesian cultures, with long-standing practice in Hawaii. In the early 20th century, figures such as Duke Kahanamoku popularized the sport globally, helping establish modern surfing culture and competitions. Surfing developed into a professional sport with standardized boards and competition formats in the mid-20th century.

Equipment and technique: common boards include longboards and shortboards, with variations such as funboards and gun-shaped boards for bigger waves. Surfers paddle to the lineup, then perform a pop-up and ride the wave. Key maneuvers include the bottom turn, cutback, top turn, and, for some riders, tube riding. Fins provide stability and control; leashes attach the board to the rider for safety; wetsuits extend cold-water surfing. Wave choice, swell direction, and reef or beach breaks influence conditions.

Competition and culture: professional surfing is organized by organizations such as the World Surf League, which scores rides on criteria including difficulty, speed, power, and variety. Surf culture emphasizes camaraderie, progression, and environmental awareness. Safety considerations include understanding rip currents and reef hazards, and wearing appropriate protection.

Surfing has also influenced fashion, music, and travel, and continues to be associated with coastal communities and environmental stewardship.