soumak

Soumak is a weaving technique used to create a textured, raised surface on textiles such as kilims and flat-woven carpets. Also called sumak, the method involves wrapping weft yarns around warp threads to form ridges or cords that stand out from the ground weave. The result is a dense, durable surface with a braided or goffered appearance, capable of carrying geometric or curvilinear patterns.

In practice, the loom is prepared with warps arranged for the ground pattern. At specific points, the weft yarn is wrapped around one or more warp threads and then carried forward, producing a wrapped element that creates a continuous raised line. The wrapped elements can be executed with the same color as the ground or in contrasting hues to define motifs. Variations include single soumak and double soumak, referring to the number of wraps, as well as different directions of wrapping to achieve various textures and patterns.

Soumak is commonly found in Caucasian, Anatolian, and Persian-inspired textiles, including kilims, sacques, and wall hangings. It is often used to articulate borders or to form decorative motifs within a flat-weave structure, providing a tactile, durable surface without knotting. The technique allows for intricate and durable designs that can endure wear, making soumak pieces popular in traditional households as well as in contemporary rug and textile design.

In modern contexts, soumak is valued for its distinctive texture and versatility. It remains a recognized method in ethnographic weaving repertoires and is frequently adapted by contemporary weavers to create hybrid or decorative textiles.