shoemaking

Shoemaking is the craft and industry of designing, manufacturing, and repairing footwear. It encompasses pattern making, material cutting, assembling uppers and soles, lasting, stitching, finishing, and fitting. Footwear is produced to protect the feet, provide support, and accommodate diverse activities, environments, and fashions. The field includes both bespoke shoemakers who tailor to individual customers and large-scale manufacturers who produce mass markets.

Historically, footwear dates to ancient times, with leather sandals and simple boots found in many cultures. In Europe, shoemaking was organized into craft guilds during the Middle Ages. The Industrial Revolution transformed the trade through mechanization, new materials, and standardized sizes, enabling factory production. In the 20th and 21st centuries, globalization, synthetic materials, and automated machinery broadened options while continuing to support artisan studios.

Typical components include uppers, linings, insoles, and outsoles. A last—a foot-shaped mold—determines size and shape. Midsole and insole materials influence comfort, while fasteners range from laces and buckles to adhesives and nails. Uppers may be leather, textiles, or composites, while soles may be leather, rubber, or synthetic compounds.

Common construction methods include cemented (direct-attach) soles, Blake stitching, Goodyear welt, and various forms of stitch-down and moccasin construction. Some shoes are stitched by hand, others sew-mounted by machine. Lasting can be performed by machine or by hand, shaping the upper around the last before the sole is finalized. Finishing steps include edge dressing, polishing, and quality checks.

Materials and equipment reflect function and price, ranging from traditional leather and wood to modern synthetics, thermoplastic polyurethane, and recycled components. Tools include knives, awls, hammers, lasts, and sewing machines, with repair shops offering resoling and refurbishment to extend life.