kasuri

Kasuri, or kasuri-ori, is a traditional textile production method in which the yarns are resist-dyed before weaving to create patterns. In this technique, portions of the warp and/or weft are bound or tied to prevent dye from penetrating the fibers. After dyeing, the bindings are removed and the fabric is woven, revealing a design that originates in the yarn itself. Because the pattern is set in the yarn rather than on the cloth, kasuri fabrics typically display soft, blurred edges rather than sharp lines, a characteristic shared with other forms of ikat.

Historically, kasuri is associated with Japan and has been developed in regional centers such as the Kurume region in Fukuoka, where kasuri weaving is especially renowned. The fabrics have been used for a range of garments, including kimono and obi, as well as home textiles. While indigo was a common dye in traditional kasuri, natural and synthetic dyes of multiple colors are also employed in various regional styles.

Techniques and materials vary, but common elements include the tying of yarns with cords or bobbins to resist dye, dyeing of the bound yarns, and subsequent weaving to form patterns. Both warp-resist (ullarik) and weft-resist methods can be used, and complex designs may involve dyeing different sections of both warp and weft in successive passes. The resulting patterns range from geometric motifs to abstract forms, with the distinctive soft edges contributing to kasuri’s visual appeal.

In modern practice, kasuri continues to be produced in Japan and has influenced textile artists and fashion designers worldwide, appearing in traditional garments as well as contemporary textiles.