ikat

Ikat is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles by resist-dyeing the yarns before weaving. The word ikat derives from the Indonesian mengikat, meaning to tie or bind. In ikat weaving, bindings are placed on sections of yarns so that when the yarns are dyed, the bound areas resist the dye and later reveal a pattern when the fabric is woven.

Yarns can be prepared as warp ikat (pattern on the warp), weft ikat (pattern on the weft), or double ikat (patterns on both warp and weft). After binding and dyeing, the bindings are released and the yarns are woven into cloth. The result is a fabric whose motifs emerge from the dyed segments of the yarns. Natural dyes have historically been common, though contemporary ikat often uses synthetic dyes as well.

Ikat patterns are known for their soft, feathered edges, a result of the difficulty in aligning dyed yarns during weaving. The technique requires careful planning and skilled execution, making ikat textiles relatively labor-intensive and often more expensive than uniformly dyed fabrics.

Regional styles include India’s Patola (double ikat from Gujarat) and Sambalpuri (warp ikat from Odisha), and Pochampally saris in Andhra Pradesh/Telangana. In Indonesia, ikat has many regional variants across Java, Bali, Sumba, and other islands. In Central Asia, Uzbekistan is renowned for ikat textiles with geometric motifs. Ikat is also practiced in Japan (kasuri) and parts of the Americas.