hangboarding

Hangboarding is a training method used primarily by rock climbers to increase finger strength and endurance. It involves repeatedly pulling on a small, specially designed board with various sized and shaped holds, often referred to as "jugs," "crimps," "slopers," and "pockets." The goal is to stress the finger tendons and muscles, promoting adaptation and leading to stronger grip.

The practice typically includes hanging for a set duration, followed by a rest period. This cycle is repeated for a number of sets. Different grip types and hold sizes are employed to target various aspects of finger strength, such as open-hand, half-crimp, and full-crimp grips. The intensity of a hangboard workout is determined by factors like hold size, hang time, rest time, and the addition of weight or assistance.

Hangboarding is an advanced training technique and requires careful execution to avoid injury. Proper warm-up is essential before any hangboarding session. Beginners are advised to start with larger holds and shorter hang times, gradually progressing as their strength improves. Overuse or improper technique can lead to finger tendonitis or other injuries. Many climbers incorporate hangboarding into their training routines a few times a week, typically on days when they are not climbing or engaging in other strenuous finger activity. The effectiveness of hangboarding is widely recognized in the climbing community for its ability to build the specific strength required for difficult climbs.