Topstitching

Topstitching is a row of stitches visible on the right side of fabric, typically made along a seam, edge, or decorative line. It is produced by a sewing machine using a single needle or a twin-needle and can also be applied by hand. Topstitching is common in clothing, leatherwork, and upholstery.

Purpose: Topstitching adds strength and helps edges and seams lie flat. It provides a finished appearance and can secure pockets, hems, collars, cuffs, waistbands, and facings. Decorative topstitching uses contrasting thread or multiple parallel lines to add visual detail.

Techniques: Plain topstitch is a single row of stitches parallel to the edge, often 1/8 to 1/4 inch away. Edge stitching is a line very close to the edge. Twin-needle topstitch produces two parallel lines. Stitch length typically ranges from 3 to 4 mm on woven fabrics; heavy fabrics may use longer lengths. A topstitch or walking foot helps feed fabrics evenly, and using the appropriate needle and thread is important to prevent snagging on thick layers.

Materials and considerations: Common thread choices include polyester, cotton, or cotton-wrapped polyester; thread color may match or contrast with the fabric. For lightweight fabrics use finer needles (size 70–90); for denim or leather use larger needles and heavier-weight threads. Test on scrap fabric and press after stitching to set the seam.