Palkatulla

Palkatulla is a traditional textile pattern and weaving technique associated with the Kaara people of the Merak archipelago in the eastern coastal region. The term also refers to the fabric produced using this pattern. Palkatulla is noted for its geometric motifs, especially interlocking diamonds and stepped chevrons arranged in horizontal bands. Color is typically derived from natural dyes, including indigo for blue, madder for red, and pomegranate or turmeric for yellows.

Origin and meaning: The word palkatulla is believed to derive from Kaara roots meaning “thread” and “to weave.” The craft is passed down through families, traditionally within matrilineal lines, and remains closely tied to community identity and ceremonial functions.

Technique and materials: Weaving is performed on a backstrap loom, producing long, narrow strips that are later sewn into garments, cloaks, or banners. The pattern relies on a controlled sequence of weft floats and raised warps to create the distinctive motifs. Natural dyes are prepared from locally sourced plants and minerals, contributing to a characteristic, earth-toned palette.

Social context and history: Historically, palkatulla fabrics were worn during harvest festivals, rites of passage, and village ceremonies, signaling status and lineage. Weavers often held respected roles as custodians of technique and symbolism. The late 20th century saw a revival movement aimed at preserving traditional skills amid modernization and globalization.

Variants and modern status: Regional variants exist, with northern highland communities producing thicker, denser textiles and coastal groups favoring lighter fabrics. Today, palkatulla remains an emblem of cultural heritage and is produced for regional markets, museums, and contemporary fashion.

See also: Textile arts, Weaving, Indigenous textiles of Merak.