routesetting

Routesetting is the practice of designing and installing climbing routes or problems in indoor climbing facilities, and of designing challenges for sport routes in outdoor settings. Setters balance physical difficulty, movement quality, safety, and variety, with the aim of providing a progression for climbers of different abilities. Each route or problem is defined by wall angle, hold selection, hold placement, and grading, which together shape the route's strategy and flow.

Work typically involves planning a sequence of problems for a wall or section of a gym, selecting holds from a catalog, and mounting them on the wall using bolts, screws, and mounting plates. Setters consider factors such as grip type, hold size, roof and overhang angles, and the spacing between holds to create feasible sequences. They may also install volumes or features that alter the geometry and hold shapes that introduce specific techniques.

Process and safety: After mounting, the route is tested by staff or experienced climbers to ensure that the moves are possible and that fall zones are clear. Routes are often reset on a schedule to maintain variety, accommodate changing clientele, or to prepare for competitions. Resetting can involve completely reconfiguring a wall or swapping a subset of holds.

Grading and accessibility: Gyms typically assign a grade consistent with local standards, which may follow V-scale for bouldering and the Fontainebleau, French, or YDS/European grades for routes. Setters strive to balance difficulty, technique exposure, and accessibility to a broad user base, while providing options for technique-focused training and for beginners.

Professional field: In many countries, routesetting is a recognized discipline within the climbing community. Experienced setters collaborate with gym managers, coaches, and competition organizers, and must adhere to safety guidelines and equipment maintenance practices.