plissée

Plissée, or plissé in French, refers to a textile technique that produces a fabric surface composed of regularly spaced folds or pleats. The term covers both the finished pleated fabric and the process used to create it. Pleating can yield various textures and degrees of stiffness, from light, flowing folds to sharp, architectural creases.

Etymology and scope: The word derives from the French plisser, meaning to crease or fold. In fashion and textiles, plissée is used to describe fabrics that have been pleated and may be stabilized to maintain their shape. Common materials include silk, cotton, viscose, and synthetics, with plissé finishes found in crepe fabrics and other textures.

Techniques and production: Pleats can be formed by hand or machine folding, then secured by stitching, pressing, or heat-setting. Permanent pleats are often achieved through heat-setting or chemical resins, especially on synthetic or blended fibers, allowing the folds to hold their form through wear and washing. Temporary pleats rely on the fabric’s natural memory or mechanical manipulation and may relax over time.

Types and variations: There are many pleat styles, including knife (single- or double-fold), box, accordion, and sunburst, as well as more complex or decorative patterns. Some fabrics feature micro-pleats or honeycomb textures to create volume without bulk. The choice of pleat type affects drape, movement, and visual rhythm.

Applications and significance: Plissé is widely used in fashion design for skirts, dresses, and tailoring to create volume, sheen, or architectural lines. It also appears in interior textiles, such as draperies or cushions, and in decorative objects. The technique combines craft with engineering to achieve durable, reusable shapes. See also pleat (fabric).

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