pleats

Pleats are fabric folds that create controlled fullness by gathering material along a line. They are secured by stitching or pressing and can be arranged to run vertically, horizontally, or in fan-like patterns. Unlike tucks, which tuck fabric away to reduce volume, pleats add volume that can be released or expanded as the wearer moves. Pleats influence drape, fit, and movement in a garment.

Common pleat types include knife pleats, where a single sharp fold runs in one direction; box pleats, formed by two folds that create a hollow in the center; inverted pleats, where the folds face inward and then open outward; and sunray or French pleats, which radiate from a central point. Other variants include accordion pleats, which produce evenly spaced narrow folds, and cartridge pleats, used for dense fullness at the waist.

Pleats appear in skirts, dresses, trousers, kilts, and also in upholstery and theater curtains. They are valued for shaping volume, improving mobility, and adding design detail. Fabrics respond differently to pleating; some require starch or heat-setting to preserve the fold, while others rely on the natural memory of the fiber. Traditional methods use sewing lines, while modern methods include machine pre-pleating.

Manufacturing and finishing involve pressing, sewing, and sometimes heat-setting to stabilize the fold. Pleated fabrics may be created directly in the garment or by attaching pre-pleated fabric to a belt, yoke, or waistband. Care varies by material; many pleated garments are best cleaned by dry cleaning or hand washing and reshaped while damp to restore the fold, avoiding high heat that can crush or distort pleats.