johtokiipeilyn

johtokiipeilyn, or lead climbing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber ascends a route while clipping the rope into protection placed along the route or to fixed bolts. The rope is belayed from the ground, and the climber places protection or clips to bolts as they go. The ascent ends when the climber reaches the route top or a designated anchor, after which they are lowered.

Equipment used in johtokiipeily includes a harness, dynamic rope, belay device, and climbing shoes. Trad routes rely on removable protection such as nuts, cams, and hexes, while sport routes use fixed bolts with quickdraws. A helmet is often worn, and chalk or other training aids are common.

Techniques cover protection placement, clipping through quickdraws, rope management, and route reading. Clipping before bearing full weight reduces rope drag, and movement should be efficient to conserve energy. A lead fall is possible if gear is not properly placed or clipping is rushed; the belayer must respond with a dynamic catch. Communication between climber and belayer, as well as thorough safety checks, are essential.

Lead routes are graded for difficulty. Sport routes are bolted, while trad routes require placing protection. In Finland and much of Europe, French grades are commonly used for sport climbs and UIAA or YDS equivalents may apply to trad routes.

Lead climbing emphasizes planning, strength, and risk management. It carries greater exposure and a higher potential for gear failure than top-rope climbing. Climbers typically train gradually, perform safety checks, and practice fall techniques and lowering under supervision or with trusted partners.