flatfelled

Flat-felled seam, also called a felled seam, is a durable method for joining two pieces of fabric by enclosing the raw edges within a double fold so the seam lies flat and smooth on both sides. It is valued for strength and a neat exterior finish, making it common in sturdy garments.

Construction is designed to hide raw edges and reduce bulk. In a typical flat-felled seam, the fabric pieces are aligned and joined so that the seam allowances are folded and enclosed within the seam, then secured with topstitching along the edge. The result is a seam that presents a clean outer line and a reinforced interior edge, capable of withstanding wear and washing.

Uses and prevalence: The flat-felled seam is widely used in durable apparel such as denim jeans, workwear, and sportswear, where seam strength is important. It is also found in certain types of shirts and outerwear, particularly in areas subject to stress or abrasion, such as inseams, hems, and yokes. The technique is favored for its longevity and for producing a high-quality, finished look without visible raw edges.

Variations and considerations: Seams can be made with varying widths of seam allowance depending on fabric weight and desired bulk. While providing durability, the process is more time-consuming than simpler seams and requires careful pressing to maintain a flat profile. It may not be the most economical choice for lightweight fabrics or mass-produced fast fashion.

See also: felled seam, French seam, standard seam.