brogueing

Brogueing is the decorative perforation and serration pattern punched into leather uppers of shoes and boots, most prominently featured on brogues. It originated in Scotland and Ireland, where perforations were once functional for drainage in leather footwear worn in wet conditions, allowing moisture to escape and the sole to dry. Over time, these holes and the accompanying edge detailing became a defining stylistic element.

The term covers a range of patterns and styles. Common forms include full brogue (all-over perforations along the seams and a wingtip toe cap), semi-brogue (perforations on the toe cap with decorative perforations along the seams), quarter or partial brogue (fewer perforations, typically along the edges), and the medallion toe (a perforated motif on the toe box). The choice of pattern influences formality, with wingtip and full brogue styles often considered more casual or fashion-forward, while plain cap-toe designs minimize broguing for formal settings.

Production and care: brogueing can be created by punching holes with a hand tool or machine, or by laser perforation in modern manufacturing. Leather thickness and edge finishing affect durability and appearance. Perforations are typically paired with burnishing or stitching along the cut edges. Common materials include calfskin, full-grain leather, and sometimes suede, with care tailored to the leather type to prevent tearing around perforations.

Etymology and usage: the word derives from the Irish Gaelic or Scottish terms for “shoe,” with the pattern becoming associated with regional footwear and later broader fashion. Today, brogueing remains a widespread design feature in formal and casual footwear.