bekko

Bekko is a term used for tortoiseshell material derived from the shells of hawksbill sea turtles, traditionally used in East Asian decorative arts, especially in Japan. The word bekko also denotes the distinctive tortoiseshell pattern and coloration found in the material.

Historically, bekko was produced by slicing and shaping the hawksbill shell into thin sheets or veneers, which were then dyed, carved, or inlaid into wood, lacquerware, and other crafts. It has been used for a variety of objects, including inlaid accessories, combs, buttons, netsuke, and small decorative pieces, as well as eyeglass frames in the modern period. The shell’s natural variegation—amber to brown tones with dark bands—made bekko highly prized for its aesthetic appeal.

Cultural and historical context: Bekko has a long association with Japanese craftsmanship, where inlays and cosmetics of the material appeared in numerous traditional objects. Its popularity peaked before modern wildlife protection concerns limited the harvest and trade of hawksbill shells.

Modern status and substitutes: Hawksbill turtles are protected under international and national conservation laws. Trade in genuine bekko is heavily regulated or banned in many countries, though antique or pre-convention items may be restricted rather than prohibited in some jurisdictions. In contemporary production, synthetic tortoiseshell, plastics, and resins are commonly used to imitate bekko’s appearance, providing a non-endangered alternative for inlay and accessory work.

See also: Tortoiseshell, Hawksbill sea turtle, Inlay, Netsuke.