Tenería

Tenería, or tannery, is a facility where hides and skins are transformed into leather through tanning and related processes. The industry encompasses receiving, preserving, treating, and finishing hides to produce durable, water-resistant material used in a wide range of products.

Most tanneries follow a sequence of steps that may vary by method. Hides are inspected and prepared, cleaned, and dehaired, then subjected to soaking, liming, deliming, and bating to reload the collagen structure. After preservation and moisture adjustment, the hides are subjected to tanning, which stabilizes collagen fibers with tanning agents. Common tanning systems include vegetable tanning (tannins from tree bark and plant sources), chromium(III) tanning (mineral salts), aldehyde and synthetic tanning, or combination methods. Retanning, fatliquoring, dyeing, and finishing follow, along with splitting, shaving, and grading to achieve desired thickness and appearance.

Types of leather reflect the tanning method. Vegetable-tanned leather is valued for its strength and aging patina, often used in traditional goods and saddlery. Chrome-tanned leather is more flexible and widely used for shoes, garments, and upholstery. Other processes produce specialty leathers for automotive interiors, upholstery, and fashion items.

Environmental and social aspects are integral to the industry. Tanneries handle chemical reagents and generate wastewater containing organic load and chromium or other contaminants, necessitating treatment and regulatory compliance. Worker safety and responsible chemical management are key concerns, increasingly addressed through cleaner production technologies and closed-loop water systems.

Globally, tenerías are distributed across Europe, the Americas, and Asia, with major centers in Italy, Spain, India, China, Brazil, Bangladesh, and Mexico. The sector remains essential to the leather supply chain, subject to fluctuations in hide supply, fashion demand, and environmental regulations.