Tanners

A tanner is a craftsman who converts animal hides into leather through the tanning process. The trade covers the preparation, tanning, and finishing of hides from cattle, sheep, goats, and other animals, producing durable material used in footwear, upholstery, saddlery, and a wide range of goods.

Tanning has ancient origins, with evidence from early civilizations in Egypt and Mesopotamia. In medieval Europe, tanners worked in urban workshops and guilds, and the industry expanded significantly during the industrial era with the advent of faster tanning methods, particularly chromium-based processes, and mechanization.

Tanning methods vary. Vegetable tanning uses tannins extracted from tree bark to produce firm, durable leather suitable for saddlery and belts. Chrome tanning employs chromium salts to yield soft, pliable leather and faster processing, though it raises environmental and waste-management considerations. Other methods include aldehyde tanning and oil or fat tanning, each yielding different characteristics for various applications.

Typical production steps include cleaning and fleshing of hides, soaking and liming, bating and deodorizing, pickling, the tanning stage, conditioning and dyeing, fatliquoring, drying, and finishing. The chosen method influences the leather’s texture, color, strength, and how it handles over time.

Leather produced varies by tanning method: vegetable-tanned leather tends to aging gracefully with patina; chrome-tanned leather is versatile and widely used in fashion and upholstery. Finishing options range from transparent and branded finishes to more textured surfaces like nubuk or suede.

The industry faces environmental and labor considerations, especially regarding chromium effluent in chrome tanning. Modern tanneries increasingly adopt closed systems and alternative, lower-impact processes. Major global centers include Italy, Spain, the United Kingdom, the United States, India, China, and Brazil.