Ruffes

Ruffes refer to the ruff, an elaborate pleated neck collar worn in Europe during the 16th and early 17th centuries. Emerging from earlier tubular collars, the ruff grew increasingly large and ornate as fashions shifted in centers such as England, the Low Countries, and France.

Ruffs were typically made from linen, lawn, or lace and were heavily starched or stiffened with other materials to hold their circular or pleated shape. They varied from modest widths to extravagant diameters that could exceed a meter in some examples. Ruffs could be plain or richly decorated with embroidery, edging, and jewels, and were often worn with matching undersleeves or cuffs.

Both men and women wore ruffs, with size and fabric signaling wealth and status. Maintenance was demanding: ruffs required substantial laundering, reshaping, and renewed starching to retain their form.

By the late 17th century, the fashion declined as silhouettes shifted to softer collars and cravats. Today, the ruff is principally known from portraiture and historical costume, where it remains a defining symbol of Renaissance and early modern European dress.