Helilooming

Helilooming is a fiber arts technique in which yarns are woven to produce a helically oriented surface, resulting in raised spiral ridges along the fabric. The defining characteristic is the intentional introduction of twist into the weft path as the weave progresses, creating a continuous helical structure that can run lengthwise or crosswise.

On a loom, helilooming is achieved by guiding the weft with a small rotational component relative to the fabric, using a secondary thread, a specially shaped shuttle, or a timed take-up that imposes rotation. The effect can be combined with standard weave structures such as plain or twill to produce mixed textures. The precise parameters—twist, pitch of the helix, and fabric density—determine the height and spacing of the ridges.

A range of fibers can be used, including cotton, wool, silk, or synthetics. Many practitioners pair a flexible core or twisted novelty yarn with a regular weft to provide structural support for the helices.

The term has appeared in contemporary textile discourse since the early 21st century, primarily among experimental weavers and artists. It is considered a niche technique and is not widely adopted in industrial production.

Variants include single-helix and double-helix weaves, and projects may combine helilooming with color-weave patterns to emphasize the spiral texture. Applications include decorative fabrics, scarves, and small-scale architectural textiles.

See also spiral weaving and 3D weaving.