Ókostum

Ókostum is a term used in theatre and cultural studies to describe a practice that eschews traditional, elaborately designed costumes in favor of minimal or non-costumed presentation. The word is formed from the Icelandic prefix ó-, meaning not, and kostum, meaning costume; it appears primarily in Nordic discussions of performance aesthetics and is not widely standardized across languages.

Definition and practice: Ókostum covers performances where attire is ordinary or deliberately stripped down, with emphasis placed on the actor’s body, voice, and movement, aided by lighting, set, and props instead of ornate clothing. In some productions actors may wear street clothes or simple fabrics that reveal the character’s social status or inner state without traditional costume signs.

Aims and interpretations: Proponents argue that uncostuming foregrounds immediacy, vulnerability, and social realism, reducing distraction from fashion or fantasy. Critics contend that it can limit expressive range or confuse audiences accustomed to conventional costume cues.

History and usage: The term has appeared in some discussions within Nordic theatre circles, in festival notes and scholarly articles exploring minimalism and authenticity in performance. It remains a niche concept and is often used descriptively rather than as a formal methodology.

See also: Costume design; Minimalism; Naturalism.