woolen

Woolen refers to fabric or yarn made from carded wool fibers that are not combed to align the fibers. It contrasts with worsted, which uses combed, tightly aligned fibers to produce a smooth, fine fabric. The term is used in both American and British English, with "woollen" (British) and "woolen" (American) spellings.

Production and structure: In woolen fabrics, raw wool is cleaned and carded to create loose, fluffy batts. The resulting woolen yarns are typically soft, bulky, and elastic, with a fuzzy surface and good loft. Because the fibers are less aligned, woolen fabrics tend to be warmer and more insulating but less smooth and drapable than worsted fabrics. Careful carding and spinning preserve the natural properties of the wool, including its crimp and elasticity.

Properties: Woolen textiles are generally warm, breathable, and moisture-absorbent, making them comfortable in varying conditions. They have good elasticity and a forgiving hand, though they can be prone to pilling and, in some cases, felting if exposed to heat and agitation. The looser fiber structure gives woolen fabrics a more textured appearance and a softer, fuzzier feel.

Uses and examples: Typical woolen fabrics include woolen flannel, Tweed, bouclé, and Melton. These fabrics are commonly used for outerwear, coats, jackets, blankets, and heavy winter garments, as well as some casual sweaters. For suits and fine dresswear, worsted fabrics are more common, while woolens dominate heavier, casual, or textured pieces.

See also: Worsted.