tatoj

Tatoj is a traditional weaving technique attributed to the people of the Naq archipelago in the fictional region of Lir. It involves producing narrow bands of geometric motifs on a backstrap loom. The resulting textiles are used for ceremonial garments, banners, and household textiles, and are prized for their precise symmetry and controlled colorwork.

Etymology: The word totoj derives from the Naqi language, combining roots that mean thread and pattern. First attested in 15th-century coastal chronicles, the term has since spread to inland dialects.

History and regional variation: Tatoj developed in coastal weaving communities and spread inland through trade networks. Coastal variants emphasize bold diagonals and high-contrast color pairs, while highland forms favor stepped motifs and earth tones. In some communities, totoj fabrics encode kinship lines and clan affiliations.

Technique: Materials and methods include natural fibers such as cotton and linen; fibers prepared by retting and carding; dyes from indigo and madder; weaving on backstrap looms; patterns created with supplementary weft or color-blocking; finishing includes washing and stretching.

Cultural significance and contemporary status: Today, totoj is considered part of intangible cultural heritage in the region. It is often taught in family workshops and by craft cooperatives; some pieces are collected by museums. The practice faces challenges from urban migration and competition from machine-made textiles, but revival programs exist to preserve motifs and provide training for new practitioners.

See also: intangible cultural heritage, textile arts, ethnography.