surf

Surfing is a surface water sport in which a person rides a board on the forward face of a moving ocean wave. Surfers balance on a buoyant board as it glides along the wave, typically toward the shore. The activity takes place in coastal seas and oceans around the world, with equipment and styles that vary by region and water temperature.

The modern form of surfing originated in Hawaii in the early 20th century. Indigenous Polynesian cultures had long practiced wave riding on wooden boards, but the contemporary sport gained international popularity after Duke Kahanamoku demonstrated it in exhibitions in the 1910s and 1920s. Over time, board designs evolved from heavy, long craft to shorter boards that enable more dynamic maneuvers.

Equipment includes surfboards of various shapes, such as longboards and shortboards, as well as bodyboards and stand-up paddle boards. Surfers typically wear a leash to prevent losing the board. Wetsuits are used in cold water. Core skills include paddling to catch a wave, executing a pop-up to stand, and turning the board to follow the wave’s face; more advanced maneuvers include bottom turns, cutbacks, and top turns, and some waves may offer tube riding.

Waves are formed by distant weather systems and break differently depending on coastal features. Beach breaks, reef breaks, and point breaks are common types. Surf quality depends on swell size and direction, wave period, wind, and tides. Safety considerations include rip currents, submerged hazards, and crowded lineups.

In competition, the World Surf League organizes the premier professional circuit, while surfing made its Olympic debut at the Tokyo 2020 Games and has continued in subsequent Games. The sport has a global following, with schools, clubs, and communities that emphasize skill development, etiquette, and respect for the ocean.