saddlestitched

Saddlestitched refers to a seam created using the saddle stitch, a traditional hand-sewing technique commonly used in leatherwork. The stitch is formed with two needles and a single length of thread, passed through each hole from opposite sides, producing a stitch line that is visible on both faces of the material. The result is a strong, durable seam prized in high-stress leather projects.

Technique is straightforward but precise. Holes are typically pre-punched with a pricking iron or awl. A single length of waxed thread is threaded onto two needles. Starting at an end, the stitcher alternates passes from each side, pulling tight to lock the stitches. The thread is kept taut and evenly spaced, and the ends are secured with backstitches and a knot or finish at the edges. The locking nature of the saddle stitch means the seam remains strong even if one stitch loosens.

Common materials and tools include waxed linen or synthetic thread, paired leather needles, a stitching pony or clamp, pricking irons, an awl, and edge finishing tools. The waxed thread helps prevent fraying and provides durability for long seams.

Applications and characteristics: saddlestitched seams are widely used in wallets, belts, bags, holsters, saddles, and other leather goods where strength and longevity are important. The stitch is time-intensive and requires skill, but it offers excellent resistance to unraveling and a distinctive, traditional appearance.

History and scope: saddle stitching has long-standing roots in saddlery and leathercraft and remains a hallmark of artisanal leather goods today. It contrasts with machine stitches in its labor intensity and hand-finished aesthetic.