poywki

Poywki is a traditional textile technique and the fabric produced by the Cordran people of the Dimara archipelago. The term refers to both the weaving method and the finished cloth, which is distinguished by a textured geometric pattern that appears on both sides of the material. The technique uses a supplementary warp that allows inserts of lifted weft to create raised motifs.

Etymology and origins: The word poywki is believed to derive from Cordran terms meaning “twist” and “thread.” The earliest surviving records date to the 12th century and appear in coastal market documents; the craft spread across the archipelago by the 15th century and later.

Technique and materials: Poywki weaving is typically done on a standing loom. The warp is conventional, while a third set of threads constitutes a raised secondary weave that forms geometric motifs. Weft threads are commonly cotton or hemp, sometimes supplemented with metallic filaments for ceremonial pieces. Finishing includes washing, a light resin treatment, and natural dyeing with madder, indigo, or plant gums.

Cultural role and uses: Poywki pieces are produced by guild workshops and are traditionally worn during state ceremonies and weddings. The cloth can signify status, with patterns and color palettes tied to family lineage and regional identity. In contemporary practice, poywki has influenced regional fashion and artisanal markets.

Modern status and variants: Today, poywki remains a living craft with revival programs and exhibitions. Variants include lightweight shawls, medium-weight cloaks, and heavy mantle fabrics, each with distinct motif families. The tradition illustrates how textile techniques encode social meaning and regional aesthetics.