noil

Noil is a term used in textile fiber processing to denote short staple fibers that are removed from the fiber stream during combing and other refinement steps. It is typically derived from cotton, silk, or wool, and represents fiber too short for inclusion in high-quality yarns. Noil can also refer to the resulting fiber waste that is reclaimed for lower-cost fabrics or blends.

In cotton processing, combing is used to align long-staple fibers and remove shorter ones to produce a smooth, strong yarn. The fibers rejected during combing, or those not meeting the desired length, are referred to as noil. Silk noil comes from short silk fibers that are removed during reeling or combing; wool noil can originate from worsted or other combing operations. While noil is considered lower-grade fiber, it is not simply discarded in all cases; it is often blended with longer fibers or used in fabrics and products where a textured or softer hand is desirable.

Characteristics of noil fibers include their short length and greater number of fiber ends, which can lead to a rougher or more irregular hand, increased pilling tendency, and generally lower tensile strength compared with yarns made from longer fibers. Noil fabrics tend to be cheaper and may have a matte or pebbled appearance. They can produce lightweight, textured textiles, and are used in silk noil for certain lightweight, rustic-looking garments, as well as in cotton noil for affordable suiting fabrics, blends, and some felt-like products.

See also: textile fiber length, combed cotton, silk noil, wool noil.