Houndstooth

Houndstooth is a duotone textile pattern characterized by broken checks that form abstract four-pointed shapes resembling a canine tooth. Traditionally rendered in black and white, the pattern also appears in a range of colors, scales, and fiber contents. It is most commonly associated with wool fabrics used in suits, coats, and other outerwear, but can also appear on cottons, synthetics, and upholstery.

The pattern is typically produced with a simple two-color twill weave, where the interlocking warp and weft create the distinctive jagged, tooth-like motifs. Variants include larger-scale versions for bold fashion statements and micro or tonal versions for subtler uses. The term “puppytooth” is sometimes used to describe a finer version of houndstooth.

Origin and history: Houndstooth has long been linked to Scottish textile traditions, with early examples appearing in woven tweeds in the 19th century. The name is widely believed to derive from the resemblance of the motifs to a dog’s tooth, though the exact origin remains uncertain. Over the 20th century, houndstooth gained lasting popularity in haute couture and menswear, becoming a staple in many fashion collections.

Usage and style: Houndstooth is considered a classic, versatile pattern that pairs well with solid colors and neutral palettes. It appears in business suits, overcoats, skirts, dresses, scarves, and accessories, as well as in interior design for upholstery and drapery. Care depends on the fabric; wool versions are typically dry-cleaned, while blends may be machine-washed according to fiber content.