Überexfoliation

Überexfoliation refers to an excessive or overly aggressive exfoliation that compromises the skin's barrier and causes irritation beyond normal renewal. It can result from the use of too frequent exfoliating products, high concentrations, or incompatible actives.

Common causes include physical exfoliants with large, rough grains; chemical exfoliants such as AHAs (glycolic, lactic) and BHAs (salicylic acid) used too often or at high strengths; concurrent use of retinoids, vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide; abrasive tools; and preexisting sensitive skin conditions such as eczema or rosacea.

Symptoms include persistent redness, stinging, burning, tightness, itching, flaking, and increased sensitivity to sunlight or skincare products. The skin may feel temporarily oilier or drier and may develop rebound breakouts.

Consequences include barrier disruption, increased TEWL, dehydration, and potential pigmentary changes in darker skin tones. Recovery can be prolonged if exposure continues.

Management involves stopping exfoliants, simplifying the routine, and restoring the barrier with gentle cleansers and moisturizers containing ceramides, glycerin, or hyaluronic acid. Use fragrance-free products, avoid fragrances and essential oils. Sun protection is essential. In persistent cases, seek a dermatologist; a tailored plan may include patch testing and slower reintroduction of actives.

Prevention tips: introduce exfoliants gradually, limit frequency to once weekly or less, avoid mixing multiple active exfoliants, ensure compatibility with other actives, perform patch tests, and monitor skin response.