tidalography

Tidalography is the study of tides, which are the rise and fall of sea levels caused by the combined effects of the gravitational forces exerted by the Moon and the Sun, and the rotation of the Earth. This field of study encompasses understanding the patterns, causes, and effects of these predictable oceanic movements. Tidal scientists analyze tidal cycles, which typically occur twice a day in most coastal locations, and examine variations in tidal range, the difference between high and low tide.

The primary drivers of tides are lunar and solar gravity. The Moon's gravitational pull is the dominant force, creating bulges of water on both the side of the Earth facing the Moon and the opposite side due to inertial forces. The Sun's gravity also influences tides, though to a lesser extent. When the Sun, Earth, and Moon are aligned, as during new and full moons, their combined gravitational forces result in larger tides known as spring tides. Conversely, when the Sun and Moon are at right angles to Earth, their gravitational pulls partially cancel each other out, leading to smaller neap tides.

Tidalography also investigates the geographical factors that modify tidal behavior, such as the shape of coastlines, ocean basin depth, and the presence of bays and estuaries. These features can amplify or dampen tidal ranges and influence the timing of high and low tides. Understanding tidalography is crucial for various applications, including navigation, coastal engineering, tidal energy generation, and marine biology, as tides significantly impact coastal ecosystems and human activities.