pourpoint

A pourpoint is a padded, quilted garment worn by men in medieval and early Renaissance Europe. It functioned as a protective layer beneath armor and also appears as a civilian outer garment in the 14th to 16th centuries. The pourpoint was typically hip-length, closely fitted, and made from linen or wool filled with padding such as wool batting. It was constructed with vertical quilting channels that shaped the torso, often emphasizing a narrow waist and wider hips.

The front of the pourpoint was fastened with lacing, buttons, or hooks, and it carried small lacing points, or “points,” at the edges. These points were used to lace the pourpoint to the hose (chausses) to keep the garment from riding up during movement in armor. Some versions had integrated sleeves, while others were worn with separate sleeves as part of a two-piece arming outfit.

In armor contexts, the pourpoint served to distribute the pressure of plate or mail more evenly across the torso, reduce chafing, and help create a smooth silhouette for the armor to sit on. It also provided added warmth and a more comfortable surface against the wearer’s skin. When not worn under mail or plate, the pourpoint persisted as a fashionable, fitted garment that influenced later Renaissance doublets.

Historically, the pourpoint appears in sources from the late 13th or 14th century and became central to arming dress in the 15th century. By the 16th century, it gradually evolved into the civilian doublet, with armor design moving toward other silhouettes. The term remains primarily associated with historical dress and armor contexts.