piton

A piton is a metal spike that is hammered into cracks in rock to serve as an anchor point for protection in rock climbing. Pitons are typically made of steel or steel alloys, though lighter metals such as aluminum have been used. They come in various shapes and sizes to fit different crack geometries, including straight pitons and angled or curved pitons, and may be designed for clipping a carabiner or placing additional gear.

Placement and use involve driving the piton into a crack with a rock hammer until it is secure enough to take weight. The climber clips protection to the piton–often a carabiner or quickdraw–to protect against falls. After the lead climber passes, the piton can be removed with the hammer or a pry tool; some pitons are designed to be removable, while others are left in place. Leaving pitons in place can help protect ongoing protection needs on a route but may damage rock and is discouraged in many areas.

History and usage context: Pitons date from the early era of rock climbing, developed to provide portable protection on natural routes. With the rise of removable protection such as nuts and camming devices and the widespread use of bolts on many routes, the use of pitons has declined in modern sport climbing. However, pitons remain common in traditional and aid climbing, and in certain backcountry or ice-adapted routes where other protection is impractical or unavailable. Proper practice emphasizes minimizing rock damage and following local ethics regarding placement and removal of pitons.