aallokemuunnos

Aallokemuunnos, often translated as wave transformation or wave modification, refers to the process by which ocean waves change their characteristics as they approach and interact with the coast. This phenomenon is crucial in understanding coastal processes, including erosion, sediment transport, and the behavior of coastal structures.

The primary driver of aallokemuunnos is the decrease in water depth as waves travel from deeper offshore waters towards the shoreline. As waves encounter shallower water, their speed decreases due to friction with the seabed. This reduction in speed causes the wavelength to shorten and the wave height to increase, a process known as shoaling. If the water becomes shallow enough, the wave can break, dissipating its energy.

Besides shoaling, other factors influence aallokemuunnos. Wave refraction occurs when waves approach the shore at an angle, causing different parts of the wave crest to enter shallow water at different times. This differential slowing leads to the wave crest bending and becoming more parallel to the coastline. Wave diffraction happens when waves encounter an obstacle, such as a breakwater or headland, causing the wave energy to spread out. Finally, wave reflection occurs when waves encounter a solid boundary, such as a seawall, and bounce back. The combined effects of these processes can significantly alter the wave climate near the coast, influencing the dynamic environment.