Stonesetting

Stonesetting is the craft of securing gemstones in jewelry by creating settings in metal that hold the gem in place. It encompasses the design, fabrication, and finishing of mounts for stones and covers a range of techniques, from simple prong settings to complex channel or pavé styles. The practice has ancient roots and remains essential to modern jewelry making.

Common setting styles include prong (or claw), using metal prongs to grip the stone; bezel, where the stone is encased by a metal rim; channel, where stones sit in a groove; pavé, where many small stones are held by tiny beads or pins; flush or gypsy, where stones are set level with the metal; tension, where a stone is held by the strength of the metal surrounding it; and bar or rail settings.

Process: a setting is planned during design, seats are prepared, the stone is selected for size and hardness, and the metal is formed to hold the stone. The setter secures the stone with appropriate techniques such as prongs being bent over, a bezel being pressed around the girdle, or beads being raised in pavé. After setting, the piece is finished and checked for alignment and security.

Tools and materials: common metals include gold, platinum, and silver. Gemstones include diamonds and colored stones. Tools include gravers, burrs, setting pliers, files, a bezel or prong stake, and in modern practice a laser or mechanical welder for some techniques.

Quality and care: a well-set stone should be secure, with even metal surrounding it and no chips; proper setting protects the girdle of the stone. Stones should be checked periodically and cleaned by gentle methods.

History and scope: stonesetting developed with metalworking in ancient civilizations and evolved with jewelry styles and technologies, including modern precision settings and laser welding.