woolsorter

A woolsorter is a skilled laborer responsible for sorting wool according to its quality, staple length, fineness, and color. This is a crucial step in the wool manufacturing process, as different grades of wool are used for various types of fabrics and garments. Historically, woolsorters were highly valued for their expertise, which was developed through years of experience and a keen sense of touch.

The process of woolsorting involves examining fleece by fleece, or sometimes by individual locks of wool, to identify variations. A woolsorter would typically separate the fleece into different sections, such as the back, shoulders, sides, belly, and legs, as the wool from these areas varies in quality. The finest and longest wool fibers, often found on the back and shoulders, would be designated for high-quality worsted yarns, while coarser or shorter fibers might be used for woolen yarns or other purposes.

Factors considered by a woolsorter include the crimp (the natural waviness of the fiber), its resilience, handle (how it feels to the touch), and the presence of any defects like vegetable matter, discoloration, or tenderness (weakness in the fiber). The ability to accurately sort wool directly impacts the final quality and cost of the finished textile product. In modern industrial settings, mechanical sorters and automated systems have been developed, but skilled manual woolsorters are still employed in some areas, particularly for specialty wools or for quality control.